Info
Alle Bewertungen (1.313)
- kranjcar (5815)- Bewertung vom Käufer.Letztes JahrBestätigter KaufGreat communication. A pleasure to do business with.
- nightowlcafe (38648)- Bewertung vom Käufer.Vor über einem JahrBestätigter KaufPrompt payment. Hope to deal with you again. Thank you!
- millionmagazines (20059)- Bewertung vom Käufer.Vor über einem JahrBestätigter KaufQuick response and fast payment. Perfect! THANKS!!
- munafo19 (3688)- Bewertung vom Käufer.Vor über einem JahrBestätigter KaufThank you for an easy, pleasant transaction. Excellent buyer. A++++++.
- winkproducts (1361)- Bewertung vom Käufer.Vor über einem JahrBestätigter Kaufa+++++ Transaction After a small bump in the road.
- epj- Bewertung vom Käufer.Vor über einem JahrBestätigter KaufPrompt payment for item purchased, smooth transaction. Thanks!
Rezensionen (4)
16. Jan 2010
2 Canon Wide-Angle Lenses- 10-22mm & 24mm Tilt/Shift
2 von 3 finden das hilfreich I have these 2 wide-angle lenses that I'd like to discuss:
1. Canon wide-angle zoom 10-22mm
2. Canon wide-angle Tilt/Shift 24mm
It's hard to compare these 2 lenses since they are different in function. The Tilt/Shift 24mm is a moderate wide-angle lens. I say this because I have a new Canon T1i. Since it has a smaller sensor, the multiplication factor is 1.6, leaving me with a lens of 1.6 x 24mm = 38.4mm, which is not as much of a "wide-angle" anymore.
The main advantages (if Photoshop distortion corrections are not considered) of this lens is to correct for distortions due to wide angle lenses when they are aimed up or down. Aiming a wide-angle lens up or down (for buildings let's say) increases perspective
(size distortion) from the bottom to the top. A tapering effect occurs, with the bottom broadened, and the top minimized. A second major advantage is to allow the lens to angle left or right, or top to bottom) which allows for enhanced focus. Canon has incorporated the tilt/shift components from the large-format cameras into their 35mm lenses. If you Google the words "Scheimpflug Rule", you'll find explanations on how the view camera was used to minimize distortion, and maximize focus. That's what Canon (and I'm sure Nikon) have done with these tilt/shift lenses.
However, with the added advantages of the tilt/shift come some disadvantages. I haven't had enough time to verify what I am about to write, but this is what I've read: The more you tilt and shift the lens, the more you will decrease even illumination across the image-capture sensor. If you enlarged an image captured with tilt/shift movements, you'd noticedarkened corners form the lens movements. Of course, with "Photoshop", it's easy to dodge to balance the exposure in the 4 corners.
Shift means to slide the lens to the left/right or top/bottom. To avoid building distortion (top/bottom), you need to keep your lens and camera parallel to the building. Of course, with most buildings, and their locations (confined downtown areas), it's now at easy as it seems. If you do keep the lens parallel, with the building, you might chop off the top. Therefore, you can slide the lens to centre the building in the viewfinder and capture it all. This is one of the other advantages of this lens over other "normal" or zoom lenses.
Now the 10-22mm lens is a great lens for "sucking in the scene". What I mean by that is the lenses ability to take a small space and fit it into the small sensor of the T1i. The sensor size is 22.3mm x 14.9mm (smaller than the full-frame Mark III which is 24mm x 36mm - former 35mm film camera).
However, even on the T1i, the 10-22mm translates by the 1.6 factor into 26mm-35.2mm as a zoom. I tried the 24mm TS on my living room after I had shot the living room with the 10-22mm set at 10mm. There's no comparison when it comes to capturing a small-sized area with a wide-angle lens.
The 10-22mm easily wins for image area capture! However, if you had more space to work with ,then you easily use the 24mm TS to max the depth-of-field, and minimize distortion. However, distortion can be corrected easily (with some loss of image area) through the use of Photoshop (Select All, then Image Edit Transform or Image Transform).
Another interesting feature of the tilt/shift lens 24mm is it's ability to distort more,and to decrease the focus. WIth the change in photography "styles" to selective focus, this lens can be used with its' movements to this advantage.
SB
26. Sep 2009
Epson v700 Scanner
4 von 4 finden das hilfreich Hello Everyone,
This is my 4th and probably final scanner. I've had the Acer A 320 (great for paper), the Epson 3200 (great for paper and film from 2 1/2 x 2/14 and up, the Nikon 8000 (film up to 2 1/4 x 3 1/4 -fantastic), and now the Epson Perfection V700 (paper and film).
If you've already owned a flatbed or film scanner, then it's quite easy to work with the V700. The software that Epson provides has Grain Reduction, Digital ICE, and unsharp mask. I've tested the unit with some 35mm slides and was impressed what a flatbed scanner could do with a slide. The results were great in terms of no grain, capturing fine detail, and very little dust.
I scanned the slides at 4800 DPI and came up with a 1.12" x .84" size of 62.5 MB. I then enlarged the image to 7.875" x 10.5" @ 514 DPI for the same file size of 62.5 MB. You really don't need to go so high, as the human eye is satisfied with 300 DPI and can't resolve any higher!
I used my 1270 Epson printer (about 10 years old now and still working great!) to make the print.
You should have (and most of you undoubtedly have) a fast computer (mine's a slow 2.0 ghz PC) and Photoshop.
Now for some good and bad (but not so bad):
1. The D-Max is 4.0 (the ability to capture a range of tones from dark to light) compared with the more-expensive V750 (D-Max of 4.3). However, anyone knowing Photoshop would know that you can scan the same slide at different exposures (to capture light and dark tones) and then blend them altogether in Photoshop (the specific command escapes me for now). So spending the extra $ 300.00 really isn't worth the cost. Also with the V750, you can use oils to fine-tune your film and eliminate scratches (a messy technique).
2. Like most scanners, the parts are "plasticky". Be careful to avoid breakage, and use a well-lit room. In this way you won't break off small pieces of the film holders.
3. Use a dust-cover because the higher the resolution of the scanner, the more it will capture - especially dust or scratches, even if you use an anti-static cloth or brush!
4. I purchased the Nikon 8000 to transfer my collection of 8000 slides to digital. I'm a teacher who had a large slide collection like anyone else. I started out scanning my family slides and after I did that (about 500 slides that my father had taken in the 1950's and early 60's I called it quits. For teaching purposes I could download images from the Web. Try to buy 1 used - $900-1400 if you can!
Why did I mention that? Because each slide takes time to scan. You have to do a preview, and then scan.
You then do some small retouching in Photoshop, save the file and backup, and you have about 8 minutes of work. Multiply that by 100 slides, you get 800 minutes or about 15 hours of work! Are you a good editor? Do have like staying indoors in winter?
Once you've done some fine-tuning for your slides (Kodachrome, Ektachrome 5500 and 3200 Kelvin, Fujichrome,you can scan 12 slides at a time.
5. It's hard to find a used V700 on e-Bay. If you buy a scanner, you'll most likely keep it. In my case, I bought it from someone who needed to copy a set of images, and then resold it. Most of the time the sellers are stores. Another slightly annoying thing was that Epson raised their price for this scanner by $100.00 from 2008 to 2009!. T
In conclusion, if you're serious on keeping all those "historic" film or print images to pass on to your sons and daughters or to the next generation, then this is the scanner to have- period!
06. Feb 2019
Version 4 with Brushes is adequate for a catalogue-creating version Of Lightroom
0 von 1 finden das hilfreich I bought Lightroom 4 thinking that it had the brush features for adjusting small areas of a photo.
It does have these features which are excellent for previewing your images before working them in Photoshop.
Personally, I don't use Lightroom, but I purchased Lightroom 4 to help my brother learn the software.
I find that Lightroom likes to invade your computer to search for every file folder, files, and photos that you have. I prefer to catalogue my photos outside of Lightroom.