Aftermarket Nexx X.R3R Main Spoiler Attachment
EUR 67,35
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Aftermarket Nexx X.R3R Main Spoiler Attachment
EUR 67,35
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Enthusiast of way too many things at once. Only just now trying to move into the direction of supplying custom parts for others, and not just myself. Slowly going to be creating molds for various parts I've made by hand, and start producing them on a much quicker scale so others to own them too.
Alle Bewertungen (150)
- motorco18013 (39441)- Bewertung vom Käufer.Vor über einem JahrBestätigter KaufGood buyer, prompt payment, valued customer, highly recommended.
- carpartswholesale (3381923)- Bewertung vom Käufer.Letzter MonatBestätigter KaufThank you for an easy, pleasant transaction. Excellent buyer. A++++++.
- tcmtinc (55699)- Bewertung vom Käufer.Vor über einem JahrBestätigter KaufThank you for an easy, pleasant transaction. Excellent buyer. A++++++.
- brakeszone (1951)- Bewertung vom Käufer.Letzte 6 MonateBestätigter KaufGood buyer, prompt payment, valued customer, highly recommended.
- fairingwold (11527)- Bewertung vom Käufer.Vor über einem JahrBestätigter KaufQuick response and fast payment. Perfect! THANKS!!
- damaiautopartsmall (2150)- Bewertung vom Käufer.Letzte 6 MonateBestätigter KaufGood buyer, prompt payment, valued customer, highly recommended.
Rezensionen (2)
29. Aug 2017
Worked Like A Charm
1 von 1 finden das hilfreich I was looking for something to stop my '12 Focus' computer from reading the low wattage LEDs I installed into my headlights as an error; "Dipped Low Beam Fault". It would turn them off every time I turned on my lights -- thinking it was doing me a favor by not sending power to what it thought was a shorted or broken halogen bulb.
The first item I bought was an "anti-flicker / decoder" from a different seller, it claimed it would solve all computer errors related to the headlights, as well as stop the LED flicker which happens at each revolution of the alternator... Well it did stop the flicker (But I wasn't so concerned about that) for the moments that the LEDs were actually on -- But it didn't stop the computer from turning off the LEDs and displaying the warning.
So I did some researching and found out theres two types of wiring setups related to LED/HID headlights:
1. Anti-Flicker / Decoder
2. Load Resistor
An Anti-Flicker / Decoder is meant to solve flickering (headlights/taillights) or hyperblinking (blinkers) and minor computer errors that do not resolve in cutting off power to that particular light.
A Load Resistor, which is what this item that I am reviewing actually is ; is designed to receive the high wattage meant to be sent to the very low wattage LEDs (because halogens require much more juice than LEDs do; like 3-4X) and soak up a lot of the wattage before reaching the LEDs. Without it, the car is sending a large amount of wattage to an LED bulb which it is only going to use a fraction of -- thus the computer is assuming the bulb is broken or shorted. But with this item, all of the wattage is being used, as the resistors are soaking up the extra watts not needed by the LED bulb -- and so the entire wattage being sent to the LED is being used.
NOTE:
The resistors on this item get VERY hot (but it is seemingly good quality -- so it may run cooler than a cheaper pair). You MUST mount the resistors onto a metal piece, preferably, but if not; a very hard plastic that has been tested not to melt from the heat can be used as a mount base instead.
DO NOT let them dangle freely in the engine compartment, as this could easily result in a very rapid and unexpected fire at any moment during a drive.
DO NOT shove them inside your headlight housing, that will guarantee damage to your headlights -- and again pose a risk for fire (your headlights will already be well over 100deg with LEDs inside). If you have rubber/plastic covers that go over the openings of your headlight assembly, cut a slit or two to allow the wires of the load resistors to feed through and allow the cap to still cover the opening. DO NOT leave your headlight openings exposed, this will result in water spots inside the headlight lense and again pose another risk of fire or damage to the bulbs.
Hope this information helps -- took me a few hours of Googling to figure out what exactly I needed. This item will work for ya if you're trying to solve my same problem I described at the beginning.
And to the item distributer, feel free to take information from this review to include in your item description -- it would help a lot of future buyers.
18. Sep 2017
Perfect For Sealing Up a Repaired Phone
This was one of my most anticipated new additions to add to my growing arsenal of device repair tools. I was reluctant at first whether it was going to be a strong enough adhesive, especially with the very thin 1mm roll. Was very surprised to feel just how strong the adhesive is ... when you have the tape stuck between your fingers it takes an unexpected amount of force to separate your fingers, not like an incredible amount of force, but much more than you would have expected for sure.
I have only used the 1mm roll on multiple phones now, and I gotta say, it works really well and does a great job at reproducing the effect from the original Apple gasket/tape that you find in iPhone 6 and beyond. It is nearly the exact same thickness and fits perfectly on the lip where the original gasket/tape goes. The 1mm and 2mm rolls are great for most small devices like phones, and the 3mm roll would likely be best for larger devices like tablets.
It is obvious that the rolls were precisely sliced off from a much larger 3M roll, so it is the same tape for each thickness. Oh and they are indeed 3M, at least it says so inside the cardboard tubes.
Only complaint I can actually think of is how easy it can be to make a mess of the rolls. I already threw away the cardboard tube for the 1mm tape because it became dislodged from inside the roll of tape. But it's not big deal, I just leave each roll in their own separate ziplocks that they came in.
I recommend this for any person trying to add tools to their collection. It adds a touch of professionalism to your phone repairs when you actually seal the new LCD. Most repairers just slap the new LCD on and call it a day, uncaring that the screen will eventually lift in areas and also make those crackly loose fitment noises when you apply pressure on certain parts of the new LCD.