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Rezensionen (4)
06. Mai 2017
HP Pavilion TX1000 Motherboards are horrible, horrible, HORRIBLE!!!
These motherboards have a NVIDIA chip from 2007 that has a heating failure problem. NVIDIA accepted these chips had a problem but never recalled their products leaving thousands of buyers hanging with their losses. When the chip reaches about 72 degrees Celsius, it detaches from the motherboard and loses contact with traces producing a dark screen when turned on. With the years, the motherboard gets so warped that even reballing the chip won't last for longer than a few months. Some people suggest soaking the chip underneath with clear flux until it spreads out from all sides after removing the red epoxy around it using a special solvent and heat. This method prevents oxidation when heating the chip to reattach it to the board. After doing this, one should reapply red epoxy in the corners to keep it in place. This fix will last maybe a year if done correctly and a good quality thermal pad with more than 11w/mk is used for the GPU and some high quality thermal compound is used for the CPU. The amount of time and work a person has to dedicate to this motherboard is simply not worth it. Skip these motherboards and avoid a heart attack!
06. Mai 2017
Dell Latitude D510 motherboard is average or maybe close to good.
I previously gave a bad review by mistake because I confused this motherboard with a HP Pavilion TX1000 motherboard. Discard previous review. This motherboard on the other hand works well. What I don't like is that the bottom gets too hot. It seems to discharge heat through a wide metal plate that goes beneath the motherboard but CPU temps remain below the 50 degrees Celsius which is good.
Also, all Windows installations run bad (Windows XP, Vista, 7, 8, and 10) because the Intel graphics have no AGP texture acceleration according to DXDIAG. Linux seems to do the job but requires some effort. I installed Lubuntu Linux and then activated the Intel driver from 'Additional Drivers' section. I also installed the Mesa drivers and that gave the acceleration that Windows failed to give to the graphics. Linux also gives the graphics 256MB (Windows only gives 128MB) for its own use which is super good. Maximum accepted system memory is 2GB (2 sticks of 1GB each). For browser, Lubuntu comes with Firefox pre-installed which runs fast and YouTube videos run smoothly. I also added Kodi from the Lubuntu Store just because I can.
06. Dez 2019
KRXNY 3000W 24V inverter - My personal recommendations and mods
2 von 2 finden das hilfreich What to do...
1. If you want the inverter to last, use only 80% of its rated power max. That would mean 2400W instead of 3000W.
2. This inverter has 2 hots on the AC side of 60V each for a total of 120V, no neutral, and a floating ground. When hard-wiring, I strongly suggest to hook up a small electrical panel with a double-pole 20A breaker dedicated only to the inverter. Why? Because the inverter has 2 hots; in case an over-current occurs, both hot wires need to stop current flowing simultaneously. The 20A at 120V equals the recommended 2400W max.
3. Connect a ground wire from the electrical panel to the inverter's hard-wire middle AC ground terminal BUT also connect another AC ground wire from the hard-wire middle AC ground terminal to a busbar that connects to a ground rod dedicated to this system. This will protect users from any short-circuit produced by a damaged device connected to the Inverter's AC side.
4. On the inverter's DC side, if my recommended 2400W max are to be used, 2400W divided 24V equals 100A. This means that on the DC side it's better not to use the included cables which are not thick enough. Using a 1-AWG cable is better for short distance between batteries and inverter. Increase to 0-AWG cable if the distance is greater than 7 feet but less than 15 feet. A 100A, 24V breaker and close to the positive battery terminal is a must.
What not to do...
1. DO NOT bond one of the hot cables to ground. Since this inverter has no neutral, bonding one of the live/hot wires to ground will not only electrify ground with 60V but can also cause a fire and personal injury. The above recommendation about grounding and the double-pole breaker on the AC side should be enough to protect users.
2. Never open inverter and work inside of it while connected. To work inside, while disconnected from everything, connect a load (e.g. light bulb) and turn on switch for few seconds to discharge capacitors. Load will act as a resistor.
Modifications I made (obviously modding will void warranty)...
1. I opened the inverter's case and checked for loose connections and debris. I found a broken fuse holder leg connector (that isn't currently used in the design) beneath one of the transformers. I carefully desoldered it and removed it. I also found some thick cables with some of their sheathing peeled off and dangerously close exposed wires from positive and negative cables: a short-circuit waiting to happen. I carefully protected those cables with red and black electrical tape.
2. The inverter's fans turn on frequently which tells me that it has a tendency to get hot. To alleviate this problem, I removed the flat metal cover, drilled some holes to it, and I installed two computer fans behind it and now the inverter runs much better. Each fan requires 12V and 0.1A which equals 1.2W. Both are connected to a 24VDC to 12VDC converter. Then, the converter is connected to the charge controller's load output.
3. I drilled a hole on the inverter's case to install a ground (chassis ground). Nothing is connected inside the inverter to this bolt, this is ONLY for the chassis. In case the chassis becomes electrified, nobody will get electrocuted if they touch it and the 100A breaker on the DC side will eventually blow if the short circuit is of DC nature. I used a ground cable equal in gauge (AWG) to the ones used on the DC side of the inverter and this cable is connected directly to the negative battery terminal. In case of a short-circuit, nothing else gets electrified and the battery will send the excessive current forward to the 100A breaker which will trip.
4. Besides using the hard-wire terminals, I also added a convenient double outlet connected to the 15A outlet of the inverter (works more like an extension but it's fixed to the wall).
5. This inverter doesn't come with remote switch but I created my own. It involves soldering wires to the internal small circuit board that contains the inverter's digital screen. I used the very same solder points that are used by the inverter's switch to connect the remote switch and also used the solder points used by the inverter's led light to connect the remote small led light. I bought 50 feet of network cable to attach the remote led light and remote switch. Network cables have 8 small wires with different colors but only 4 are needed (2 for the led light and 2 for the switch). I used cable ties to secure the network cables to the inverter's chassis to avoid pulling them out and ripping something inside. I installed connectors to both pair of cables to unplug them in case I have to remove the inverter. For remote switch to work properly, the inverter's switch must be in the OFF position.