Petzl Pirana/DMM Anka; Two fantastic descenders
I already own one of each of these, so I bought this pair without hesitation. The Pirana offers multiple routing options to precisely tailor the amount of rope friction to your needs. The standard routing runs the rope through the carabiner, for an added level of security. Since it is a "horned 8" the user also has multiple options for increasing friction or tying off. Only drawback (if it is one) is that it must be paired with a specific Petzl carabiner; once fit, the two pieces become one integral unit. Very safe and secure.
The DMM Anka is another favorite piece of hardware. It is somewhat longer and beefier than a standard figure-8, so if a few extra grams make that much of a difference, you will need to decide if the benefits are worth the extra mass. I think so. For starters, the Anka is much thicker than a standard 8, meaning your rope doesn't have to make such a sharp bend (less wear) and you get more surface contact area for increased friction to control your descent. The extra mass also slows heat buildup, which helps prevent rope damage on long or fast descents. The Anka also has a couple of substantial downward projecting 'ears,' which prevent the rope from sliding to the top of the ring and binding up. Lastly, the Anka is made with a 90-degree twist between the loop and the attachment point, eliminating the irritating sideways attitude of conventional 8's, making it easier to see what you are doing. Very controllable and easy to use.
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